The Real Deal: It's the best of both worlds, with days spent sailing on a wooden ketch and nights at charming country inns. The trip starts just north of Seattle on Whidbey Island at The Captain Widbey Inn, a beautiful madrona log inn built in 1907. Dine at the inn's Captain's Table, one of the region's best restaurants, with innkeeper John Colby Stone and in the morning, you'll board the "Cutty Sark," his 52-foot gaff ketch that was built in Hong Kong in 1954. Out at sea, all eyes are on the "Cutty Sark," admired for her classic design and red sails. You'll sail four to seven hours a day on open waters but always within view of forested islands, snowcapped mountains and quaint fishing villages. You can sit back and enjoy the scenery or help with hoisting and lowering sails and steering a compass course. And along the way, you may spot whales, dolphins, seals and bald eagles. If you'd like, Captain John will set anchor so you can set some crab traps and pull in your own afternoon snack. Itineraries can be customized by route and duration, with a choice of overnights at beautiful waterfront inns in La Conner on the mainland and in the San Juan Islands, including Lopez, San Juan and Orcas islands, before returning to the Captain Whidbey for the final night and farewell dinner. The package price (per person, double occupancy) covers sailing, lodging, all food and beverages (including Northwest wines with meals), moorage and gratuities; $1,333 for five days, four nights and $2,095 for seven days, six nights. Captain John schedules trips year-round, rain or shine--barring gales or a rare thunderstorm. The most popular sailings are May through September, although April and early October offer the strongest winds. July, August and September promise the best weather.

The Sea Cure:A weekend of fresh air in the Pacific Northwest was just what I needed. I'd recently moved to New York from California and while happy about this big change in my life, I was still adjusting, making new friends, adapting to a new job and missing the joys of tending my own flower garden. Add to that the pressures of supporting two daughters in college and yikes: Not only was I seeking self and facing change but I was also doing the balancing act. So sailing on the "Cutty Sark" by day and spending nights in charming inns surrounded by green gardens and forested backdrops was the perfect antidote. When we pushed off from the dock at the Captain Whidbey Inn and hoisted her sails, I felt right at home on the sea, having grown up in a sailing family. For me, being on the water and feeling the wind in my face always has a way of clearing my head. Light winds carried us out of Penn's Cove, where some of the tastiest mussels in the world are grown. No sooner had we set sail when we spotted seals basking on the rafts at Penn's Cove Mussel Farm. Then Captain John called to us from the stern, "Look, there's an Orca," he said still awed by the sight of a breaching black-and-white whale, though he sees them often in Penn's Cove and off San Juan Island. We hung back to watch for awhile before sailing north from Whidbey Island to our first night's stay at the fishing village and arts' enclave of La Conner. Along the way the Captain entertained us with stories and songs of the sea, and local history. Several hours later, the cook, Carol Ann, served lunch on the quarterdeck--platters of mussels, clams, mesclun salad, roasted vegetables, hummus, tzatziki and fresh breads, and a selection of Washington wines. We nibbled all the way to the Swinomish Channel, when the Captain gave me a turn at the helm, motoring through the narrow inlet between the mainland and Fidalgo Island. When we docked in front of the La Conner Channel Lodge, with snowy Mt. Baker towering in the background, I was feeling much better about my current course in life--any worries just small blips on a radar screen

Privacy Quotient: Spend your days and mealtimes with Captain John and other passengers, but privacy is yours at the cozy inns where you'll bunk down each night. There's also some free time on shore for kayaking, hiking or exploring on your own. It's also possible to book this cruise for a twosome and catch some private moments on the bow or down below, while the Captain keeps his eyes on the horizon.

Happy Together: Watch the sunset while kayaking in the sheltered waters of MacKay Harbor on Lopez Island or take a bike ride. The MacKaye Harbor Inn rents kayaks and provides mountain bikes free to guests.

Talk to the Mammals: Visit the Whale Museum in Friday Harbor on San Juan Island and learn about the J, K and L pods living in the San Juan Islands. You can listen to whale songs of various species in the Whale Phone Booth and adopt a whale for $30.

Magic Moments: An unforgettable highlight is sailing the "Cutty Sark" under the 182-foot Deception Pass Bridge that links Whidbey and Fildalgo islands, a tricky sailing maneuver that must be timed at noon, otherwise the turbulent waters prevent passage by all but the most powerful motor vessels.

History Lesson: Visit the San Juan National Historic Park on San Juan Island, where a 1959-1872 territorial dispute between the United States and England escalated into the Pig War, which was settled with only one casualty--a British pig that was shot by an American farmer for rooting his potato field.

Local Motion: The Bay Cafe ranks as a dining must on Lopez Island. The food is great at this busy waterfront restaurant, but ask to sit at the community table, with an entertaining mix-and-match assortment of locals and visitors (no reservations taken).

Must Bring: Rubber-soled shoes, waterproof windbreaker, layered clothing, sunglasses and sunscreen and motion sickness medication (if you need it) are comfort musts for this cruise.

Sweet Treats: In La Conner, tag along with Captain John to the Calico Cupboard, where he usually picks up fresh berry pies for the next day's dessert.

Scene Stealers: The great Northwest scenery may seem familiar to you. "Double Jeopardy," "Free Willy," "Practical Magic" and "Snow Falling on Cedars" were all filmed in these parts.

Commitments: Captain John is licensed to perform marriages and also does vow renewals at sea.