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A cottage for two on California's rugged Northern
shore.
By Gail Harrington
Coastal Loving: Cozy
up at the Jenner
Inn on California's Sonoma Coast and your sweet talk will be
interrupted only by barking sea lions and the sound of waves crashing
on the spit of sand where the Russian River meets the Pacific. As
a weekend getaway, Jenner offers a combination of seclusion (if
that's all you're looking for) and location--an unspoiled stretch
of the Pacific coast and estuary that is home to more than 150 bird
species. Located 90 miles north of San Francisco, the tiny town
of Jenner is so small there's not even a traffic signal or a stop
sign. Just take your pick from any of the inn's charming one-of-a-kind
bungalows, including Rosewater Cottage (a favorite for honeymoons
and weddings), and it would be easy to spend a weekend indoors.
But don't miss the full breakfast served in the inn's main building,
included in
the price. If you're looking for more than peace and privacy, there's
plenty to do here--horseback riding on the beach, hiking in the
Redwoods, kayaking on the river and whale
watching (January through April) out of Bodega Bay. And within
a 30- to 90-minute drive, you can visit celebrated Russian
River and Sonoma
County wineries, small towns and villages with antique stores
and tasty eateries, and remnants of California history, including
the film locations for Alfred Hitchcock's 1963 film, "The
Birds," and Fort
Ross Historic Park, built in 1812 as the easternmost outpost
of Czarist Russia. Enjoy the spectacular, rugged coastline, wildlife
and highlights of the Russian River region, but take advantage of
the solitude--it creates time and space for experiencing your partner
in a whole new way.
River Dancing: There was no fancy footwork,
just slow, close dancing on the deck of Rosewater Cottage overlooking
the Russian River. My guy was doing his best to lift my spirits
after the death of my Mom a few months earlier, and on this night
all was right with the world as we danced in the moonlight. We'd
spent the morning horseback riding on the beach, the sound of crashing
waves overpowered by the desperate cries of horny sea lions seeking
mates. After lunch we kayaked upriver through the middle of a wildlife
show, spotting ospreys diving for fish, and river otters floating
like logs then playfully coming to life. Later as the sun went down,
we had side-by-side massages in the living room at Rosewater, a
beautiful cottage with weathered wood floors, high open-beam ceiling,
a massive stone fireplace, a full kitchen, large bedroom, and picture
windows facing the river and the sea. With votive candles flickering
around the room, we dined on fresh salmon and Dungeness crab bought
in Bodega Bay, fresh salad greens and asparagus from a farmers'
market and a bottle of Sonoma chardonnay. Facing change and
loss is always difficult, but sharing special times like this reminded
me: appreciate today.
Privacy
Quotient: Very high. And from Rosewater Cottage, the only
signs of life you'll see are sea lions, otters, ospreys and herons.
Mind/Body/Spirit:: Find your balance.
Take a yoga class ($10), taught three times a week at the Jenner
Inn's Sanctuary. Join innkeeper Richard Murphy on a walking meditation
($15) along a maze-like path above the ocean, say your mantra and
spend some solo time before reconnecting with partner and hiking
through the redwoods.
Must Bring: Rosewater has all the comforts
of home, but stop for provisions in Bodega Bay, just 12 miles south
on Highway 1. You'll find fresh seafood at the Tides
Wharf Restaurant and Fish Market and a great selection of California
wines at Gourmet
au Bay.
Dear Diary: Read the comments of previous
Rosewater guests who have recorded their favorite moments in a desktop
diary. You'll find touching entries from couples who were married
in front of Rosewater's fireplace, and from others who've returned
regularly to this special hideaway.
The Love Ride: The Love Ride: Chanslor
Stables offers a guided beach horseback ride for two. Cost is
$60 per person, or $95 each with picnic lunch.
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