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Sure it's a great spot to honeymoon or renew love,
but for single travelers it's a place to honor self and follow
your spirit.
By Gail Harrington
Treasure Island: With beautiful beaches,
mountains sculpted into lush green rice
terraces, rainforests alive with wild orchids and monkeys hanging
from the trees, more than 1500 bird species, thousands of Hindu
temples, and sacred rivers, lakes and volcanoes,
Bali is a spectacular and spiritual
island paradise. Just off the eastern tip of Java, though distant
from the riots and unrest that have plagued Jakarta, Timor and elsewhere
in Indonesia, Bali remains safe and serene, and blanketed in green,
thanks to the fertile volcanic soil resulting from eruptions of
two active volcanoes. The island's physical beauty is matched by
its fascinating culture. You can visit villages devoted to specific
crafts, including basket making, weaving and stone carving, and
attend music, dance and shadow
play performances at hotels, museums and temples. The Balinese
are also very spiritual and at any time of year, you'll encounter
temple processions with hundreds of colorfully costumed people carrying
tall fringed umbrellas, and see sarong-clad women walking through
rice fields carrying offerings on their heads to the village temple.
Offerings of flowers, rice, fruit and incense are left everywhere--atop
statues and walls, in doorways, even on car dashboards--left with
prayers for a balance between good and evil. And wherever you stay--luxurious
four-star resort, small hotel, private villa or a simple guesthouse
that rents for a few dollars per night--you'll find locally woven
fabrics a focus of decor, and offerings and other rituals part of
daily life.
Where
to Stay: Bali can be quite affordable, and even the luxury
resorts offer good value. Four Seasons Bali's two resorts are among
the top choices for a honeymoon or special romantic getaway. On
Bali's southern coast, Four
Seasons Resort Jimbaran Bay has 147 private villas that feature
carved Indonesian furniture, Balinese artwork and textiles, plunge
pools, freestanding bathtubs, private gardens with outdoor showers,
and open-air living areas, terraced on 35 acres of tropical gardens
that slope down to a sandy beach. The resort has four restaurants,
plus great in-villa dining options, but you'll also want to try
some of the inexpensive fish restaurants along Jimbaran
Beach. The spa offers some great his-and-hers treatments that
can be done either in the spa or on your villa patio. From Jimbaran,
you can do the usual tourist shopping in nearby Kuta and Sanur,
or have the concierge arrange some island outings with a private
driver for the day. One hour away is the Four
Seasons Resort Sayan, which has 18 suites and 28 villas spread
throughout rice
terraces above
the Ayung River in Bali's central highlands near Ubud, the island's
cultural center. Sayan offers a serene homecoming after a day spent
combing the art shops and galleries
of Ubud. The two resorts are a contrast in size and architecture,
but have the same quiet elegance and pampered approach to caring
for guests.
Four Seasons has a number of packages (breakfast included):
Romance in Bali, and the Sayan spa and Balance and Harmony
packages. So which resort do you choose? You don't have to if
you book the Ocean and River Experience, which allows you to split
your time between the two resorts.
Embracing the Culture:Though the beauty
and serenity of Bali call out for someone to enjoy it with, I went
by myself and happily never felt alone, that is until I woke up
one morning at 3 a.m. to a strange and terrifying noise. Over and
over again, I heard some muffled words that sounded something like
f*!% you, f*!% you. Frightened, I dialed the hotel operator and
told her, "Someone's in my room. Come quickly." Help arrived
immediately. A gentle young man who inspected the villa emerged
from the bathroom with a smile and said, "You have a
gecko. They can be very noisy." After that I remembered to close
the shuttered wood doors to my patio at Four Seasons Sayan, and
the rest of my stay was incredibly peaceful. After breakfast overlooking
the private plunge pool and rice paddies beyond, it was hard to
drag myself away, but each morning I took the hotel shuttle into
Ubud to the
Agung Rai Museum of Art for a weaving class.
Click,
clack, cluck, click, clack, cluck, sounded the loom as Rupiana,
one of my teachers demonstrated how to weave the colorful ikat
cloth that is part of the texture of Balinese life. Barefooted,
she stepped on the right foot pedal and then on the left, firing
a shuttle of thread along a wooden track to the other side of the
loom. Within minutes she had finished dozens of rows and she motioned
that it was my turn. Click, swoosh. My confidence plummeted
as the shuttle went flying like a missile out of control. This was
going to be harder than I thought. My teachers Rupiana and Susanti
helped me weave a colorful piece of ikat, just enough to make my
own sarong. They didn't speak much English, but somehow we connected
beyond the basics of weaving. I discovered that
textiles are an important part of Balinese culture, with different
patterns and styles of cloth being used for various life celebrations,
including birth, marriage, death and other rites of passage.
Beyond learning weaving techniques and traditions, I also absorbed
a larger view of Balinese culture at Agung Rai. I watched beautiful
little girls performing delicate traditional dance movements, the
picture of feminity as they imitated their teacher's footwork, and
hand and finger
movements. A dozen small boys sat cross-legged on the floor, pounding
wooden mallets on a large bronze xylophone. And in some of the garden
pavilions, craftsmen taught woodcarving, puppet making and painting,
as graceful young Balinese women made their rounds, placing floral
offerings around the museum grounds. After three days, I finished
weaving my multi-colored sarong and left with a new appreciation
for the art of weaving and the serenity of Balinese culture.
The Love Quotient: The romance meter
registers high at both Four Seasons Bali resorts. Villas with outdoor
showers, private plunge pools, dreamy curtained beds, open-air living
areas and great dining by room service are among the reasons many
couples never leave the villas during their stay.
Back to School: Don't limit your interest
in art and local culture to what you discover on the streets of
Ubud, the cultural center of Bali. The
Agung Rai Museum of Art offers workshops
in weaving, puppet
making, wood carving, Balinese healing, Hinduism, painting and mask
making.
Bring Bali Home:
Purchase two inexpensive batik or ikat sarongs
in the open-air
market and have a tailor in Ubud stitch them into a kimono-style
robe for only $4. Another item for your shopping list: ata
basketry--baskets, trays, boxes, purses, coasters and placemats--made
from vines harvested from Mt. Agung, Bali's highest mountain.
Elephant Walk: Take a guided
rainforest trek riding on the back of a giant padyderm and help
support the endangered
Indonesian elephants, of which there are fewer than 1000 surviving
in the wilds of Sumatra. The $39 fee goes to support breeding, education
and relocation efforts.
Good Karma: Plan a trip to Bali during
a full moon, the best time for the karma-purification ceremony.
The sunset ceremony includes a cleansing of hands, feet, face and
mouth, body immersion in the ocean, prayer and meditation lead by
a priest, offerings of flowers, fruit and incense to purify the
mind and body, and a white string tied around your wrist to symbolize
a quest for balance, harmony and understanding.
It Takes a Village: Make a point of
visiting the craft
villages of Bali, where it seems as if the entire population
is focused on creating a specific art. You'll find stone carvings
in Batubalan, silver jewelry in Celuk
, bamboo furniture in Bona, beautiful textiles in Tenganan and
Sideman, masks in Singapadu and puppets in Sukawati.
Let's Get Cooking: Learn to prepare traditional
Balinese dishes at both Four Seasons resorts and the Serai Hotel
in East Bali. The chefs take guests on early morning shopping outings
to fishing villages and outdoor markets for ingredients. Classes
are followed by an informal lunch with the chef. Heinz
von Holzen teaches cooking at his Bumbu Bali restaurant in Nusa
Dua. And in Ubud, you can get hands-on instruction in Balinese cookery
at Casa
Luna Restaurant three days a week.
Saying I Do: If you're thinking of tying
the knot in Bali, avoid Jerry
Hall's mistake and make sure it's legal. Bali
Weddings International handles weddings and vow renewals for
foreigners.
Stealing Beauty: Try out the local secret
of the lular treatment, a skin-smoothing ritual that Indonesian
brides traditionally followed for 40 days before the wedding. After
a coconut oil massage and body exfoliation scrub of turmeric, rice
powder, ginger and sandalwood, your body will be coated with yogurt.
Men enjoy this pampering as well, which is followed by a shower
and long hot soak in a tub, and a jamu herbal drink for detoxification.
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