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While hiking inn to inn in the Austrian Alps,
you'll find the hills
are alive with more than the sound of music.
By Robert McGarvey
The Real Deal: Before
the week is over, you'll hike 60 miles, much of it a mile high,
and even if you've never climbed any mountain, you'll find the going
surprisingly easy and spectacular with views of Austria's tiny villages
that just cannot be had from ground-level. This self-guided
trek on well-worn trails takes you through verdant pine forests,
where the only sounds are songbirds and rustling Alpine streams.
The best parts of this deal: (1) your
bags are transported for you from inn to inn, so you hike without
extra weight to carry; and (2) it’s a great way to enjoy time alone
with your partner, having an adventure you can brag about for years.
Every night you bunk down in a woodsy, charming ski chalet that
probably houses jet-set skiers in winter, but in summer tourists
are few, the pace is relaxed, and the prices are rock bottom. Priced
from $1168 to $1352 per person (or $542 for land only), the package
includes seven nights in delightful inns, two hearty meals (breakfast
and dinner) daily, transportation of your luggage, maps and a guidebook,
and air from Boston or New York to Munich (add-ons from other cities
are available). In summer, when Europe's metropolises are bursting
with tourists and prices head skyward, you won't find a keener deal
than this Alpine trek.
Memories from the Trail: I almost cried.
I was so sure we had gotten hopelessly lost on the path from Maria
Alm to Hintermoos, and it was raining, hard. We're going to drown...die...starve...freeze
to death, I kept thinking as each step seemed to take us further
into nowhere. This trip was my idea and I worried that my girlfriend
was not so happy about how it was turning out. I stepped in mud
as she dodged heaps of cow manure, the rain tumbling from the sky
and dense fog rolling down off the mountaintop to enshroud us in
its chill. But, somehow we found the trail again (duh...by following
the directions in the guidebook), and then we laughed because we
realized that despite the unexpected one-day storm, we had found
the perfect vacation--amazing scenery, quiet time together and a
healthy dose of exercise. Yes, the trek was physical, yet surprisingly
nurturing of our bodies because the reward for a day's walk was
awaiting at the ski chalet--delicious food (deer stew, pork chops,
potatoes, soups--sturdy rustic fare), plus good local beers and
homebrewed schnapps, a white-lightning made seemingly by every Austrian
innkeeper following his own prized recipe.
Privacy
Quotient: Very high. Many days you'll be alone on the trail,
won't see another soul. Feeling romantic? There are no bears, no
snakes, no threats that we know of in these woods. Bring a blanket,
have a cuddle, and add to your tales to tell.
Best Town: All the villages on this trail
(tiny places named Maishofen, Hintermoos, Hinterthal, Dienten) are
quaint, but the drop-dead looker is Maria
Alm (this site is in German, but catch the images).
Night Life: Bring your own. There's none
in these villages, just a scattering of pubs. But after doing 10
to 15 miles in the Alps during the day, you'll be shocked at how
heavy your eyelids get around 9 p.m.
Must Bring: Good, thick socks. The Alps
are gentle, even rolling mountains, without the abrupt steepness
of the Rockies, but blisters are a bummer.
Alternatives: A common route and the one
we did is the Saalach Valley, outside Salzburg (itself a gorgeous
city and Mozart's birthplace, so plan to add on a couple nights).
But there are other hiking routes such as Muhlviertel, along the
Czech border, a fairytale region of thick forests and ancient castles.
Get the Facts:For information about Austria,
contact the Austrian
National Tourism Office.
Photo Credit:
Austrian National Tourist Office/Mallaun
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